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Routes in Area 51

Abducted S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adam S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Alien Autopsy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Alien Invasion T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alien Observer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Ops T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cattle Mutilation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Close Encounters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cosmic Debris S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crop Circles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Death Star S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dreamland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
ET (Extra Trad) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagle Has Landed, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Earth First (We'll Log the Other Planets Later) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Erased Memory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Event Horizon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
First Contact S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Friend or Alien T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hoss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Taint Human S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lies and Deception T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Grey Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Luna S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mars S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Men in Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mothership, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open the Pod Bay Door HAL T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Out of this World S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ponderosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Probe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Resistance is Futile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocketman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roswell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shape Shifter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Solar Flair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stargate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sunspot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Take Me to Your Leader T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
To Boldly Bolt where No Man has Bolted Before S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
UFO S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Uranus Has Rings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vulcan Mind Meld S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War of the Worlds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
We Are Not Alone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wormhole T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Young Jedi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,385 total, 36/month
Shared By: dmPete on Oct 27, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Oh man! If you climb anything between 10c and 11d and you're at Area 51, The Mothership is a MUST DO! Written up as the best climb at the crag in the guidebook, this route is incredibly fun, and will provide plenty of challenge and reward for anyone in this range. The book does not lie, it's simply that good!

It's long, pumpy, full of great moves and has perfectly placed bolts (with the exception of first), there's nothing to dislike here!

The first bolt is 25 feet up, and will be an exposed reach for shorter climbers. If uncomfortable, bring a .5" X4 cam or a larger tricam to place in the horizontal crack just below.

Once clipped, the first crux is a highly entertaining move surmounting the bulge.

Follow the bolt line left on a thin slab as you work yourself into that awesome crease. The bolt line then travels up and right in the crease until you hit a small overhang.

Make the roof moves and pump your way to the finish on ample jugs

Location

Just to the left of Pod #1 (or, 50 feet right of the tiny bridge). The second route from the right on the blank-ish face next to the approach trail (the rightmost bolt line goes straight up just left of the arete). Look for a bulge in the rock about 25 feet up, and a right leaning seam on grey/brown rock above that.

Protection

Quickdraws. One optional .5" X4 cam or tricam to proctect the run before the first bolt. Bolted anchors.

Photos

Byron Marohn
Portland, OR
  5.11a/b
Byron Marohn   Portland, OR
  5.11a/b
Getting the draw on the first bolt is committing! Honestly the next time I'm going to tape a quickdraw to an 8" branch/stick, so I can get the draw hung from the fantastic handhold below. At 5'8", I just couldn't get the draw on the bolt without an extra few inches of reach. Clipping the draw, once hung, was no problem for me. I seriously doubt you could hang the draw with a stick clip because of the configuration of the base.

The first bolt being "25 ft up" thing is also sort of a misnomer - you'll only feel like your 10' above the broken ledge system below. With something to extend your reach a small amount, getting to the first bolt won't feel harder than 5.7.

Once the first bolt is clipped, this route is spectacular. Mantle, crimp, and lieback your way to the top on crisp clean rock. Aug 20, 2016