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Routes in Forgotten Trails

Bleaker, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boy Wonder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bumblies in the Dark S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Credibility Check S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream Destroyer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Golden Feat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grumpkin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Shadows S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Macedonia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mind Stream S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smooth Operator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Strangle Hold S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tom Slick S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trash Kicker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trash Kicker Var. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twisted Memories S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wasp Stop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Your Onus S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jess Johnson
Page Views: 119 total, 4/month
Shared By: bheller on Jun 18, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A technical and beta-intensive boulder problem constitutes the first 3 bolts. I think it warrants V5. Don't be surprised if at first you feel like there aren't enough holds or feet- its cryptic down low. Above the third bolt you can enjoy mostly sinker pockets and generally good holds- its probably only 11a/b to the chains. This route is an easy tick at the grade- suss out the lower 9 move boulder problem and even someone with poor fitness could hang on to the finish. The climbing is enjoyable, but the rock is less than perfect.

Location

You will find this route just to the right of Your Onus. It can be easily identified by spoting the "strangle hold" above the second bolt- a right-facing block with lots of brown glue visible on its right side.

Protection

All bolts to a chain anchor.

Photos

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Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b/c
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b/c
Rock quality on this one is pretty good (by AF standards). Everything you need is solid, just watch out if you get a bit sloppy on the footwork. Like most routes here, with enough traffic, it will be super clean. As of 8/16, looks like someone has a project going for the extension. Looks sick! Aug 9, 2016