Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 134 total · 2/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 7, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Start from the ledge directly below the route and balance your way through blue and tan mineral deposits past three bolts.

Figure out how to get established on and then past the enjoyable, juggy-but-balancy roof. Eyeball the crux, commit, and get past it with a powerful, reachy move.

Cruise to the chains with just a bit of apprehension when jugs turn to slopers near the top.

Location

On the west-facing wall. After rounding the point and passing Long Shadows you pass a couple of mossy, lower-angled black walls.

After the black walls is a lighter-colored wall with a midpoint roof that descends from upper left to lower right.

Credibility Check is the right-most route on this wall and turns the roof at the point where it changes from angled to horizontal.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.12a
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
  5.12a
Despite being a glued-together pile of choss this route is a lot of fun.

In A Climber's Guide to Select Walls in American Fork Canyon this is rated .11d/12a. Since MountainProject doesn't have .11d/.12a, I'll put it in as .12a to make me feel more accomplished...

Anyway, if you're shorter, the crux will almost certainly feel .12a. Jul 7, 2012
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
 
All of it is very fun. Find a no hands rest just before the crux. Give those abs a workout and enjoy. Jul 7, 2012