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Routes in Forgotten Trails

Bleaker, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boy Wonder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bumblies in the Dark S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Credibility Check S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream Destroyer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Golden Feat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grumpkin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Shadows S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Macedonia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mind Stream S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smooth Operator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Strangle Hold S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tom Slick S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trash Kicker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trash Kicker Var. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twisted Memories S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wasp Stop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Your Onus S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 97 total, 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 1, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A strenuous, exciting roof, followed by some uneasy struggling through small holds to briefly easier terrain, followed by a difficult, hard-to-read section just before the chains.

Start up on light-colored slabby terrain for two bolts under the dark-colored, intimidating roof. The third bolt is under the roof and difficult to see from the ground.

Figure out the roof and head onto steep, tan limestone on smallish holds.

A respite follows for a bolt or two, and then a bit of head-scratching confusion follows while fighting the pump before the chains.

Location

After arriving at the east-facing wall at the top of the trail, turn right and walk along the base of the wall. Continue around the point (passing Long Shadows on the west side of the blunt arete at the point).

Follow the trail, passing darker-colored, lower-angled rock, then lighter-colored rock containing a broken, angled roof midway up (there are several bolted routes on the lighter-colored rock; the most visible bolt is in a bluish waterstreak).

After a left-facing corner is a tall, narrow wall with a dark-colored roof in the middle. There are two bolted routes on this wall. Twisted Memories is the left routes and climbs directly through the roof. Mind Stream is the right route; the top anchors are shared by the two lines.

Protection

8 bolts and chain anchors (shared with the line to the right).

Photos

bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
A good route, and a good warm-up. Stay left at the final bolt. Jul 30, 2015