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Routes in Forgotten Trails

Bleaker, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boy Wonder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bumblies in the Dark S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Credibility Check S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream Destroyer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Golden Feat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grumpkin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Shadows S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Macedonia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mind Stream S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smooth Operator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Strangle Hold S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tom Slick S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trash Kicker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trash Kicker Var. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twisted Memories S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wasp Stop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Your Onus S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 458 total · 11/month
Shared By: bheller on Aug 13, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Another Limestone Waterstreak!

Expect the first five bolts to provide fun and engaging climbing that weaves a bit through sinker pockets and edges with small feet. A little roof/buldge must be climbed before clipping the 5th bolt and arriving at a total hands free rest on the small ledge at half height. Probably 11c/d to here or so, so welcome that rest. Once you've re-loaded your guns, start firing- "cover" will be difficult to find on the second half. Bob and weave, left and right, through the waterstreak- crimping and clipping, but never cheating too far right. Stick with the streak- the rock is great! Expect a 25 ft section of sustained and technical 12a climbing. The crux coming at the 3rd quarter with a tricky insecure, high undercling leading up to a sinker left hand mono! Hold on for the final edges and little mantle before the anchor and you've got it! Relatively long by AF standards (even though it does have the hands free rest). How fitting, as the meaning of Macedonia basically translates to "tall and thin."

Finding me:

What would seem more difficult? Finding the route Macedonia in American Fork Canyon, or having an average westerner locate Macedonia on a global map? My money says its going to be easier to find this great route! The trail to the Forgotten Trails meets the wall proper just 1 route downhill from Macedonia. Look for the nice pocketed face down low that leads to an obvious thick dark waterstreak higher up. The route is the second route to the right from the unmistakable corner with the 5.7 bolted slab/ramp.

Protection

10 bolts to a chain anchor. Magnesium carbonate, Spanish sticky rubber, and French belay devices strongly recommended.

Photos

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Leify Guy
  5.12c
Leify Guy  
  5.12c
If you don't end up using the mono, you're missing out on all the fun! Aug 12, 2016

More About Macedonia

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