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Routes in Forgotten Trails

Bleaker, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boy Wonder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bumblies in the Dark S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Credibility Check S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream Destroyer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Golden Feat S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Grumpkin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Shadows S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Macedonia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mind Stream S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Smooth Operator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Strangle Hold S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tom Slick S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trash Kicker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trash Kicker Var. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twisted Memories S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wasp Stop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Your Onus S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Bill Boyle, Josh Clark
Page Views: 140 total · 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 24, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Pockets and edges to a high first bolt, then surmount a small roof and pass the second bolt. Scoot up and under a large roof and clip the third bolt. Find your way up and around the left side of the big roof, clip the fourth bolt, then figure out a path up and right to the chains.

Location

When the trail to Forgotten Trails reaches the wall, look left and see the steep trough at the left side of the wall in front of you. To the left of the trough is a small prow; a bolted line appears to the left of the prow. This line is Boy Wonder. Go left and find the high first bolt (at about 15 feet or so) of a line that goes up to the left side of the large roof above you. This line is Tom Slick.

Protection

4 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.11b
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.11b
I'm sure Tom made this look pretty slick when he did it. This is a highly unusual climb. Once you figure a way up and over the second roof you might feel boxed in and claustrophobic. The crux is getting into the box then getting your feet to work out ok. I took some nice falls off the roof so no worries there. I do recommend taping up your fingers on your right hand for the key deadpoint hold - it's sharp! Very fun and curious climb. But not really very Kip Slick. Jul 12, 2011
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
  5.11a
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
  5.11a
Worthy climb - pure fun! Several interesting problems to solve with the pump clock running. Jun 17, 2012

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