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Routes in Mid-Town

Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cliff Nazi S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corner, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Nino S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Guchi S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lech S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocè S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pillar of Pummel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pokey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rational Expectation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Roof, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Side Straddle Hop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sloopy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Squeeze S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tree Route, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warm Up S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
cracker jack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: John Hymer
Page Views: 41 total · 1/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jun 17, 2015
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This obscure route features a little bit of everything, hard bouldery start, stemming, a traverse left on thin feet, and a hard pull getting established under the final roof.

Pull the standard tunnel start to get established over a serious undercut. The feet are so bad that campusing might be easier, and this could be the crux of the route. Obtain a good rest on lower angle ground and head up the corner, a long draw is nice on the third bolt. Follow the large sloping rail leftwards past the 4th and 5th bolts. Make a hard move to undercling the roof, step up and traverse left around the corner. Clip the 6th bolt, pass one more tricky section and climb easier ground to the anchors.

Location

Far right side of the mid-town area. Starts at an obvious corner. To the left is the "Tree Route" to the right is "Rational Expectations"

Protection

7 Bolts to Anchors, Stickclip

Quality

A note on the quality rating. I only gave it one star because in it's current condition the amount of grime on the route might leave you with a bad taste in your mouth. I only brushed down the hand and foot holds I used but with some additional ascents and love, it would be a solid two or three stars.

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