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Routes in Mid-Town

Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cletus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cliff Nazi S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corner, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Nino S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Guchi S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lech S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the Fourth S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocè S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pillar of Pummel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pokey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rational Expectation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Roof, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Side Squeeze S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Side Straddle Hop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sloopy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Squeeze S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tree Route, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warm Up S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
cracker jack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 591 total · 4/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Feb 27, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This line offers two distinct options for difficulty. On the bolt line the route is quite challenging, but most climbers will hug the obvious crack-feature on the left side of the wall, only venturing right to clip. At the top of the slab, however, you will be forced right into a devious sequence just below the chains.

Location

About 20 yds west of El Nino.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Jason Carlson
El Paso, TX
Jason Carlson   El Paso, TX
I tried this line both ways. The beta to follow the bolt line on the face after the second ledge is tricky for 11a at best. It took me several tries to figure out a good sequence, and even then, the crimps are thin and the feet are bad. If you continue up jamming the crack after the second ledge, then traverse right to the penultimate bolt when you get to the hidden crimp near the top of the crack for the last few face moves, it is easier but still feels like 11a to me. Perhaps taking the crack all the way to the ledge and traversing right to the chains is the easiest way (I didn't try it because that ledge is very dirty). Aug 19, 2015
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
 
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
 
Staying in the crack after the big horizontal makes no sense. Going straight up the bolt line is devious, techy, and stout at the grade, but also very fun. Feb 13, 2017
Ryan Salazar
  5.11-
Ryan Salazar  
  5.11-
This route has some great hand jams to a deceptively hard to read last two bolts. Once you force moves out right to some incut crimps you are faced with a balance intensive crux. Atypical style for the Tunnel if you are looking for something different than high step lock offs. Was between 2-3 stars for me but the crack to face climbing style switch bumps up the star factor, plus a clean fall from the crux. Apr 16, 2018

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