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Routes in Mid-Town

Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cletus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cliff Nazi S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corner, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Nino S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Guchi S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lech S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the Fourth S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocè S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pillar of Pummel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pokey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rational Expectation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Roof, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Side Squeeze S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Side Straddle Hop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sloopy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Squeeze S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tree Route, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warm Up S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
cracker jack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Probably John Hymer
Page Views: 315 total · 6/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Apr 7, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This challenging line will test you in a variety of styles of climbing, a tough boulder problem on Tunnel Slopers, insecure crimping over a small overhang, a roof on jugs, and a final insecure mantel. If you can send this, you should be well equipped for any sport 12a in NM.

After stickclipping the first bolt, start with a challenging boulder problem, to a few moves of crack or layback climbing. After the second bolt an easier section leads to the third bolt. Get psyched, figure out how to clip the fourth bolt, and head up on decent sloping crimps over the bulge. Continue up on easy ground past the next two bolts, where some Rifle style trickery might allow you to get some great rests. Figure out how to pass the 7th bolt, pull hero moves on jugs passing the roof, to be faced with a final heartbreaking crux a difficult mantel to get to the anchors.

Location

Between "The Arete" and "Sloopy".

Protection

8 Bolts to Anchors. Stickclip, watch the gate on the rope end draw of the last bolt, If it is a short draw the rock may lever it open.

Photos

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Ryan Salazar  
 
Quality route, just needs some attention to keep it clean. One of the great 12a routes at the Tunnel. Jun 17, 2018
J.Kruse
Las Cruces, NM
 
J.Kruse   Las Cruces, NM
 
I think the reason this route might get less attention than others of the grade are the brutal starting moves. The boulder problem start felt harder than any sequence on other .12a's I've done at The Tunnel. Rest of the route is great. Jul 5, 2018

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