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Routes in Mid-Town

Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cliff Nazi S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corner, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Nino S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Guchi S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lech S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocè S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pillar of Pummel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pokey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rational Expectation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Roof, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Side Straddle Hop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sloopy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Squeeze S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tree Route, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warm Up S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
cracker jack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport
FA: John Hymer?
Page Views: 496 total, 8/month
Shared By: Dan Carter on Sep 24, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This one also had not been climbed in a while and was pretty dirty until I cleaned it off. It doesn't get much attention. Bouldery start up to slopey ledge and easy slab to the roof. The clip at the roof is easy to get to and clip but the moves over the roof are the crux. Pretty reachy and powerful but cool moves once you figure out the beta. John Hymer bolted this route and probably got the FA as well.

Location

This route is located to the right of the Corner route, underneath a large roof.

Protection

All bolts and anchors at the top

Photos

Garrett Canter
  5.12b/c
Garrett Canter  
  5.12b/c
Disturbing, I used that same beta when I realized the right hand crimp was no longer there. Keeping the feet from cutting was key for me. Apr 13, 2013
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12b
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12b
I broke a right hand crimp that I initially used to pull over the roof to get to the jug. New beta I ended up working out involved dynoing from the right sloper and left crimp directly to the jug. My taller climbing partner was able to keep his feet on the lower bulge and keep from cutting. Hard to grade since it's kinda a one move wonder, but I don't think it's any harder even with the breakage than other tunnel 12b's (HIVD, Blue Velvet). Of course these would probably be 12c at other areas throughout the state. Oct 22, 2012
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12b
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12b
Good for you Dan, getting out, climbing and cleaning some of the more obscure tunnel routes! Sep 24, 2012