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Routes in Mid-Town

Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cletus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cliff Nazi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corner, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Nino S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Guchi S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lech S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the Fourth S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocè S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pillar of Pummel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pokey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rational Expectation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Roof, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Side Squeeze S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Side Straddle Hop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sloopy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Squeeze S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tree Route, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warm Up S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
cracker jack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: John Hymer
Page Views: 321 total · 8/month
Shared By: DaveT on May 12, 2015
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A challenging example of vertical, insecure Tunnel climbing. It's mostly sloped horizontals, but not entirely - there are some different, fun sequences.

This thing feels continuously hard with one decent rest and the odd shake opportunity. There are some beta options: a trick that is generally considered helpful at the upper crux, and some options for the other cruxes, depending on your strengths.

It used to be graded 12d back when John was lapping it as a warmup, but is now generally considered to be on the harder end of the Shady Side 13a routes.

Location

Guchi's sister route, just to her right. A few routes right of the massive roof of The Roof.

Protection

6 bolts (used to be 4!). Stick clip recommended as the moves off the ground are tough.

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