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Routes in Mid-Town

Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cliff Nazi S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corner, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Nino S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Guchi S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lech S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocè S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pillar of Pummel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pokey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rational Expectation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Roof, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Side Straddle Hop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sloopy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Squeeze S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tree Route, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warm Up S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
cracker jack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Chris Grijalva
Page Views: 301 total, 5/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Oct 22, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This challenging route may feel quite stiff for the 12b grade for the OS. However with some beta refinement, it may feel slightly less stiff, but still hard for the grade.
After stickclipping the first bolt grab a sloping jug at full reach. Challenging moves to get established above the undercut wall lead to a quick shake and the second bolt. Here the devious crux presents itself. Figure out how to reach the small crimp and continue upwards on small sloping crimps to the third bolt and another quick shake. Continue up on more small crimps and figure out how to get to the above horizontal and a good shake. From here a few tenuous moves to get over the roof leads to an easy slab and the anchors.

Location

Starts around the middle of the Mid-Town area. To the left is "Efflorescence" 12c and to the right is a unfinished Project, then "The Roof" 12b. Second route right of Sloopy.

Protection

5 Bolts to Anchors, recommended stick clip the first.

Photos

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Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
For short climbers the crux may feel really challenging. I was shut down by the reach on my first go, but after getting some beta from my climbing partner, I was able to stick the crux, first try and redpoint. I'm 5`6" and was able to make the reach statically with the better beta. Oct 22, 2012