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Routes in The Diamond

Auntie M T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Festoon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hatari T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Psycho Bitch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ruby Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Secret Lover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tik Tok T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toto T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Toto to the Pinnacle link up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
True Grit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trusting Aborigines S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 301 total · 7/month
Shared By: Mat Brunton on Jun 2, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

(P1, 5.9) Climb the white granite corner/cave feature from the ground nearly direct to the first bolt found where the granite darkens. From there move up and slightly right passing horizontal cracks that offer decent protection opportunities onto slab that takes you to the obvious diagonal corner/crack. At the top of diagonal corner/crack you'll find the second bolt, and then move immediately right to top out on the large granite ledge.
There seem to be options for moving through the slabbiness to reach the diagonal corner/crack, which adds to the fun of this route.
There is a second bolt visible from the ground diagonal up and right from the first bolt; this bolt is for the neighboring route (Secret Lover 5.10a); you could use it for this route and then get in the diagonal corner crack, but it's funner keeping it trad and going more direct.
This route has two more short pitches that you can connect into Toto. They can likely be done as one long pitch with a 70m rope.
(P2, 5.9) Climb up and left into the large corner that you climbed right of to get to the P1 anchors. You can climb left then up (easier), or more direct up and left into the corner (harder). The corner trends right and you'll eventually move around right and up to a two bolt anchor station.
(P3, 5.7) Climb up to a small grass ledge then into a low angle crack. The anchor station is up and slightly right: a boulder with bolts that is shared by Toto.
From the top of P3 you can rap down the gully right of Toto, rap what seems like the most direct line down to Toto's P1 anchor (with a 70m), or rap back down the way you came up (it may be possible to rap from P3 anchor all the way to P1 anchor with a 70m).

Location

Starts next to Ruby Shoes in the scree gully just downhill of the nice tundra ledge that provides a start for a few quality routes (namely, Festoon).

Protection

P1: 2 bolts (1 at start on slab and 1 near finish in corner), gear to 3", 2 bolt anchor
P2: Gear to 3", 2 bolt anchor
P3: Gear to 3", 2 bolt anchor
Mat Brunton
  5.9
Mat Brunton  
  5.9
Pitches 2 & 3 can easily be done as a single pitch (just be sure to use extended draws accordingly - mainly all placements for pitch 2 as you meander through the corners). You can easily rappel from the anchor at the top of pitch 3 (this is the same anchor at the top of Toto pitch 2) back to anchors at top of pitch 1 with a 70m rope. Jun 24, 2016
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.9 PG13
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.9 PG13
The mantle at the top of pitch 1 into the wedge is pretty good before moving right on the hand traverse to the chains. Pitch 1 is good #2 & #3 need some cleaning next time bringing my brush. Jul 1, 2017
Terramariner
Tacoma, Toyota, AK
 
Terramariner   Tacoma, Toyota, AK
 
Fun linking p1 and p2 with substantial slingage. Also managed to rap with a 70m rope from p3 to the p1 anchor. Aug 10, 2017

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