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Routes in The Diamond

Auntie M T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Festoon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hatari T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Psycho Bitch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ruby Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Secret Lover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tik Tok T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toto T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Toto to the Pinnacle link up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
True Grit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trusting Aborigines S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: Skine Boynton
Page Views: 230 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mat Brunton on Jul 12, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Start left and below Toto, where the buttress turns the corner, on the right side of the arete where there is one very low bolt. Climb up and left to the left side of the arete on lichen ridden dirty (and possibly loose) rock and small cracks. Continue climbing just left of the arete through more somewhat dirty and loose rock to a grassy ledge. Above here the route becomes much cleaner and better. Climb up the slab/face just left of the arete into the start of the diagonal corner. Climb directly up from the base of the diagonal corner and over a bulge/small roof (harder), or go up the diagonal corner and move right (easier), to a large and flat granite ledge with anchor station.
From here you can continue up pitches 2 & 3 of the Diamond's Unknown 5.9 into Toto.

Location

Left and below Toto just right of the arete where the buttress turns the corner. There is a very low bolt here.

Protection

4 bolts, gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Mat Brunton  
 
This route would be more highly rated if the bottom was cleaned up. The top half is good and clean. The bottom half dirty and somewhat loose. Jul 12, 2015
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
Get brushing! That first bolt used to be higher but the bottom 10 ft of this climb has been buried by erosion from the slide area. A fun climb though if I remember right. Jul 15, 2015
Mat Brunton  
 
Brushing? Gotta keep it Alaskan! Jul 17, 2015
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
Excellent climbing from the bolts onwards, bottom isn't too bad, just dirty! Jun 26, 2016
cavemonkey   AK
FA skine and Raina july 2000 Feb 24, 2017

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