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Routes in The Diamond

Auntie M T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Festoon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hatari T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Psycho Bitch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ruby Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Secret Lover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tik Tok T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toto T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Toto to the Pinnacle link up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
True Grit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trusting Aborigines S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Steve Garvey & Jim Sweeney 1987, Direct finish Evan Skine 1999
Page Views: 1,011 total · 15/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Jul 1, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

An excellent single-pitch route which requires skill at placing small fiddly gear and a cool head to succeed. Slightly uphill and left of Ruby Shoes (5.7) is this attractive thin flake/seam with an obvious "tongue" sticking out at the 20' mark. Climb up the lieback flake as it seams out and becomes a right-facing corner at the top. Two bolts protect the upper corner and topout onto a mossy vegetated ledge. Rappel from two nice ASCA ring bolts towards the left end of the ledge.

Some additional notes: the original FA party climbed up the flake and then traversed off left below the (now bolted) corner. The bolted direct finish was added at a later date, and upped the grade from 5.9 to 5.10-. The direct finish is often referred to "Grit Yer Teeth"

Protection

Thin. A set of TCUs from micro to 1", many small nuts (offset brass wouldn't go unused), 2 bolts, 2 bolt rap anchor.

Photos

L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.10-
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.10-
Small gear is nice on this, but you can climb it on mostly medium gear, a couple smaller stoppers are nice, but you don't need to have brassies. Jul 1, 2014
Mat Brunton
  5.10a/b
Mat Brunton  
  5.10a/b
Great route! Jun 2, 2015
Mat Brunton
  5.10a/b
Mat Brunton  
  5.10a/b
This route offers decent protection. Some bomber placements for BD nuts in the 4-6 range. Decent placements for BD X4 cams in the .1-.5 range. Bolted, direct finish is definitely the crux. Jun 24, 2016

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