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Routes in The Diamond

Auntie M T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Festoon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hatari T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Psycho Bitch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ruby Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Secret Lover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tik Tok T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toto T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Toto to the Pinnacle link up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
True Grit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trusting Aborigines S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Staheli
Page Views: 1,185 total, 22/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Jul 1, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

A fun and easy route just uphill and left around the corner from Toto (5.10). Follows the shallow right-facing dihedral system starting in an area of white colored rock. An obvious 2' square roof can be seen just to the left of the line at about the 100' mark, and is a good visual for locating the climb. Two short pitches or can be linked into one full 60M pitch. Mostly easy 5th class with a few moves of 5.6-5.7. Bolted rap anchors exist on both P1 and P2. An optional 40' third pitch (4th class vegetation climbing) allows for linking this into the upper 3 pitches of Toto.

Protection

A few lead bolts (5/16") plus a single rack to 3" should be plenty for this route. Rappel with a single rope from atop P2, or do the optional third pitch and walkoff, or rappel Toto.

As of July 5th, 2014. The first anchor on this was replaced with a new ASCA anchor.
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.7
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.7
This is a really fun route. Ruby Shoes is a good learning to lead type of route with varied climbing, solid placements, good anchors and a possible walk-off descent. Jul 1, 2017
Kevin Downie  
 
2nd pitch is a lot of fun and well worth the climb. Jul 21, 2015
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.7
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.7
Someone has been aggressively "cleaning" routes on the diamond, some of these cleaning jobs have been either half assed which is actually making the rest of the climb dirty and less enjoyable, while others have had the moss ripped off loosing some serious choss, please clean with care. Jun 22, 2015
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.7
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.7
From the second anchor on this you can just make it to the anchor below the fourth pitch on toto without too much rope drag if you have a 70m rope. Jun 9, 2014