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Routes in The Diamond

Auntie M T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Festoon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hatari T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Psycho Bitch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ruby Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Secret Lover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tik Tok T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toto T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Toto to the Pinnacle link up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
True Grit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trusting Aborigines S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 1800 ft, Grade IV
FA: who knows
Page Views: 1,075 total, 39/month
Shared By: Griswald on Aug 24, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Toto to the Pinnacle Link

Part 1-To start this classic link-up, first climb Toto. My suggestion if it’s not wet is to simul climb all the way to the base of the 5.9 dihedral, apx 120 meters. Climb the 5.9 corner, then for the next pitch go out right and clip that funny bolt (this variation is not in the guidebook) this pitch is a fast way to go. Next, climb the choss to the top of Toto. Next, climb the right side of the ridge until you find your self at the top of the Green Gully.

Part 2-Climb the first pitch of Rebecca’s Roof to the base of My Pie (5.9). (see photo) Climb the left side of My Pie (5.10b Crux) so you can easily climb to the top of the formation without out massive rope drag.

Part 3-Walk along the ridge, many variations are possible. Once you are at the pinnacle many variations are possible. The classic 3 or 4 pitch climb is on the ridge somewhat near the couloir.

Part 4-I think the best way to get off this climb is to rappel one time and walk out to the Independence Mine parking. You can also rappel the pinnacle and walk back to the base of Toto.

Extension: If you are making good time try adding a bunch of ridge pitches by continuing on the ridge and following it till you get to the Fairangel Gap (5.9). This extension is know as the M.T.C. Memorial Traverse. (FA Aaron Thrasher and Ben Chriswell)
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
Length might be closer to 2000ft. although a lot of that is the ridge section which is pretty easy 5th and 4th class. Grade IV seems just about right... Sep 19, 2016
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
 
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
 
Seems accurate to me. Sep 17, 2016
Griswald  
 
Now that a few people have done this climb should the length or commitment grade be changed? I was thinking grade 4 because if you add the extension it might be in the grade 5 area. Sep 16, 2016
Yep. Don't come down the north gulley in late summer. Sand and blocks. East face has rap anchors. Old ones. East face climbing is easier on the right side. There are a few different routes up it. The full traverse to the Fairangel gap is PROUD. What a classic line. Aug 25, 2015