Toto to the Pinnacle link up
Avg: 4 from 4 votes
Routes in The Diamond
|Auntie M T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Festoon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Hatari T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Psycho Bitch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Ruby Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Secret Lover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Tik Tok T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Toto T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Toto to the Pinnacle link up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|True Grit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Trusting Aborigines S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 1800 ft, Grade IV|
|Page Views:||1,075 total, 39/month|
|Shared By:||Griswald on Aug 24, 2015|
|Admins:||Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer|
Toto to the Pinnacle LinkPart 1-To start this classic link-up, first climb Toto. My suggestion if its not wet is to simul climb all the way to the base of the 5.9 dihedral, apx 120 meters. Climb the 5.9 corner, then for the next pitch go out right and clip that funny bolt (this variation is not in the guidebook) this pitch is a fast way to go. Next, climb the choss to the top of Toto. Next, climb the right side of the ridge until you find your self at the top of the Green Gully.
Part 2-Climb the first pitch of Rebeccas Roof to the base of My Pie (5.9). (see photo) Climb the left side of My Pie (5.10b Crux) so you can easily climb to the top of the formation without out massive rope drag.
Part 3-Walk along the ridge, many variations are possible. Once you are at the pinnacle many variations are possible. The classic 3 or 4 pitch climb is on the ridge somewhat near the couloir.
Part 4-I think the best way to get off this climb is to rappel one time and walk out to the Independence Mine parking. You can also rappel the pinnacle and walk back to the base of Toto.
Extension: If you are making good time try adding a bunch of ridge pitches by continuing on the ridge and following it till you get to the Fairangel Gap (5.9). This extension is know as the M.T.C. Memorial Traverse. (FA Aaron Thrasher and Ben Chriswell)