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Routes in Chico-Valse

Chico T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Diablotin TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Between T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
L'Etonnante TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
L'Oubliée T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
La Valse T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Nez T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sans Nom T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Richard Wilmott, 1960
Page Views: 80 total, 3/month
Shared By: TSluiter on May 25, 2015
Admins: Luc-514

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Description

Face climbing from bottom to top. A couple small horizontals on the way. Very fun moves, lots of smears on the slab, feet switching, a fun right undercling 1/3 up, shallow pockets, nice crimps and smaller tenuous feet as the slab becomes more vertical near the crux. But they are all there!

Try not to use the larger crack on the left (4/5 up) to keep it hard!

Location

In Between (ha...?) Chico (5.4) and the vertical 30 ft. crack on the right (Diabloton 5.8). Low angle face climb to high angle face, go straight up!

Protection

Fixed anchors at the top.

Trad would be ballsy, but a little wandering to the left and right might protect it. First section is impossible to protect unless you use the shallow flared crack on the route to the right which would take you off route, still would be mighty funky. Maybe a cam jam on the first horizontal crack 20 ft up or so, second would be even tougher to place. Third short vertical crack is okay. Then not much till the top if I remember correctly. You might as well solo it if you think you can protect it.

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