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Routes in Chico-Valse

Chico T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Diablotin TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Between T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
L'Etonnante TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
L'Oubliée T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
La Valse T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Nez T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sans Nom T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 136 total, 3/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Oct 9, 2013
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


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Site access fees - Frais d'accès Details

Description

Getting the first 2m below you may be the crux!
once you've passed the odd vertical crack, head up into the corner on your left and follow it (pin) to a large ledge (belay possible here).
from the ledge, head straight up and a bit left of the belay (easy) or traverse diagonaly right passed a bolt and straight up to the top.

found a couple loose holds at the beginning, be careful!

Location

Start at the obvious crack on the ledge right of the buttress.
Rap down, a 70m is more than enough to reach the bottom.

Protection

Double rack to 1"
Belays and raps are bolted.

Photos

petzl logic
  5.6
petzl logic  
  5.6
there's an anchor about 3/4 of the way up, perhaps people top rop off it, but the full climb is too long *i think* for a 60m to top rope on. I was also grateful that there is a bolt for the slabby bit above that anchor, without it this would be pg13 or R easily. Nice climb, I can't rave over it like the guidebook does though. Jun 22, 2016