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Routes in Chico-Valse

Chico T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Diablotin TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Between T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
L'Etonnante TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
L'Oubliée T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
La Valse T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Nez T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sans Nom T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 136 total, 3/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Oct 9, 2013
Admins: Luc-514

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Getting the first 2m below you may be the crux!
once you've passed the odd vertical crack, head up into the corner on your left and follow it (pin) to a large ledge (belay possible here).
from the ledge, head straight up and a bit left of the belay (easy) or traverse diagonaly right passed a bolt and straight up to the top.

found a couple loose holds at the beginning, be careful!


Start at the obvious crack on the ledge right of the buttress.
Rap down, a 70m is more than enough to reach the bottom.


Double rack to 1"
Belays and raps are bolted.


petzl logic
petzl logic  
there's an anchor about 3/4 of the way up, perhaps people top rop off it, but the full climb is too long *i think* for a 60m to top rope on. I was also grateful that there is a bolt for the slabby bit above that anchor, without it this would be pg13 or R easily. Nice climb, I can't rave over it like the guidebook does though. Jun 22, 2016