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Routes in Chico-Valse

Chico T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Diablotin TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Between T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
L'Etonnante TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
L'Oubliée T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
La Valse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Nez T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sans Nom T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: B. Possion 1957
Page Views: 118 total · 3/month
Shared By: TSluiter on May 25, 2015
Admins: Luc-514

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Access Issue: Site access fees - Frais d'accès Details


Little crux at the start gaining the ledge. The rest of the climb is quite fun and varied climbing, excellent route to learn a variety of the techniques needed for climbing. Fun!


Start on the left side of upper ledge of the belay area. Step up to ledge and follow left, straight up first few feet crack and then stay left of larger crack. Straight up and over dark colored blocky-looking section and wander a little left before making it up and over to the top.


Fixed glue-in bolts at the top. Top rope access is easy following trail around the left of the buttress.

Gear is good for most of the way, a little sparse near the top-ish but you can definitely find the placements and all the stances are good. Excellent route to learn traditional climbing.



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