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Routes in Chico-Valse

Chico T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Diablotin TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Between T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
L'Etonnante TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
L'Oubliée T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
La Valse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Nez T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sans Nom T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Pete Covo 1943
Page Views: 122 total · 3/month
Shared By: TSluiter on May 25, 2015
Admins: Luc-514

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5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Site access fees - Frais d'accès Details

Description

Any crux would be at the start. From there, the climbing is really straight forward, all the stances are good. It's a classic for the area, though the climbing is not that varied.

I think it's rated 5.3 by the folks at the park but the slightly more vertical nature of the second might warrant a 5.4 rating. Who knows.

Location

Start on left side of upper ledge of belay area. Gain some height on finger crack with a funky step and then follow skinny easy block system for the first half of the climb. Step right a couple feet and follow the second, more vertical, crack system with easy steps up to the top to the anchors.

Should be very obvious.

Protection

Fixed anchors at the top. TR access on trail to the left.

Excellent route to learn trad techniques. Lots of placements the whole way up, maybe a little sparse for a first piece but I didn't look that hard and it starts up real quick. Excellent nut placements on the second half, easy to find and place, all stances are great.

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