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Routes in Candy Mountain

Achilles Heel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Better Call Saul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Elder Statesman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gracious Grant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
He's Not Your Buddy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Powder Puff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Round S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stark Industries S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Styx S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet Tooth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tainted Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Top Ten T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Willy Wonka S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wizard and Glass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wormhole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Chad Watkin
Page Views: 488 total · 15/month
Shared By: TylerKC on May 17, 2015
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Start up a ledge and make a fun move off the slot.
Balance your way through some slabby moves to a final crux up high.

Very entertaining and fun moderate.

Protection

7 Bolts

Photos

Michael A Parker
Tulsa, OK
  5.10b
Michael A Parker   Tulsa, OK
  5.10b
I concur with Creed. Clipping the fixed draw (2nd bolt) was absolutely sketchy and after our rope gun ran it, we left the fixed draw clipped for everyone else. Oh and if you try to clip the chains from the little crimp shelf below the anchor the previous bolt will be at your waist making it really hard to pull up slack to clip and someone could easily Z clip if they weren't paying attention. You could move up to the jug above the chains to avoid this. Aside from that this is a fabulous route. Oct 9, 2017
TylerKC
Fayetteville Arkansas
 
TylerKC   Fayetteville Arkansas  
 
It is possible a hold may have broken over the years. Jun 5, 2015
Creed Archibald
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Creed Archibald   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This serves as a decent warm up for taller people, not so much for shorter people. The second bolt is a fixed draw. I'm just over 6 ft and I could barely clip it from a comfortable stance. My 5'6" girlfriend would have to clip it from a pretty desperate and pumpy position (She normally onsights 10s, both sport and trad.) I clipped that draw for her, and then she continued on. Just something to consider. Courtesy clip for shorter folks.

I also thought the crux was at the second bolt, not below the anchor. Jun 5, 2015