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Routes in Candy Mountain

Achilles Heel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Better Call Saul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Elder Statesman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gracious Grant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
He's Not Your Buddy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Powder Puff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Round S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stark Industries S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Styx S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet Tooth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tainted Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Top Ten T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Willy Wonka S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wizard and Glass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wormhole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Tony Morris, 1995
Page Views: 399 total, 19/month
Shared By: hcollins on Mar 21, 2016
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

Face away from the rock as you stem up to the ledge above the first bolt (looks harder than it is, as long as you find the feet). Then make a bold move as you grab the ledge, and bring both feet over to the bolted cliff face. Shimmy over to the arĂȘte to clip the second bolt, and enjoy the fun climbing to the top with a couple of crux sequences in the middle. A fun and (somewhat) heady lead for moderate climbers.

Location

Candy Mountain (Cave Creek), Arkansas

On the main trail for Candy Mountain, hike behind the waterfall and continue hiking past the classic Gracious Grant. Scramble down some rocks and keep hiking until you see a trail leading off to the left that takes you up a short scramble to the top of a giant boulder. The cliff forms a 3 sided alcove with Wizard Glass (5.11a slab) at the back and Wormhole going up the arĂȘte on the right.

Protection

6 bolts and anchors

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