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Routes in Candy Mountain

Achilles Heel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angst S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bald Ambitions S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Better Call Saul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bumpers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elder Statesman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frogland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gracious Grant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
He's Not Your Buddy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Powder Puff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quantum Foam S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Short Round S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stark Industries S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Styx S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet Tooth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tainted Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Top Ten T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ungracious Lee S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Willy Wonka S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wizard and Glass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wormhole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tony Morris 1995
Page Views: 903 total · 22/month
Shared By: C Archibolt on Jun 5, 2015
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

A rarity! A hard slab climb in Arkansas. The rock is bomber, the bolts are well spaced, and all the clips are made from good holds.

For shorter people, this route will have two cruxes: first above the 2nd bolt and again after the 4th or 5th bolt. Tall people (over 6 ft) can bypass the first crux by reaching to a jug, but they will have to figure our the delicate second crux.

Location

Past the seasonal water fall, past the Gracious Grant area. This is the large gray slab in the center of a rock corridor.

Protection

6 lead bolts, two fat rap bolts for the anchor (on a small ledge below the roof)
Alex Zucca
Milwaukee, WI
 
Alex Zucca   Milwaukee, WI
 
Bring a long sling (at least 240cm) if you plan to set up a TR after leading. The anchors are far back on the ledge. Dec 23, 2016
Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
  5.11a/b
Zane Winter   Kansas City, MO
  5.11a/b
Would definitely advise a stick clip on this one, due to a very delicate start. Super classic. Nov 28, 2017

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