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Routes in Candy Mountain

Achilles Heel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bald Ambitions S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Better Call Saul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Elder Statesman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gracious Grant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
He's Not Your Buddy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Powder Puff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Round S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stark Industries S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Styx S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet Tooth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tainted Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Top Ten T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Willy Wonka S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wizard and Glass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wormhole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chad Watkins
Page Views: 1,002 total · 28/month
Shared By: TylerKC on May 17, 2015
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

Classic Candy Line

Climb through honeycomb pockets (tafoni) till you reach a large sloping rail.

From here heel hook your way to the glory jug finish.

A tad pumpy.

Protection

7 Bolts (5 Fixed)

Photos

Creed Archibald
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Creed Archibald   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I never understood why this route earned the cover of the Arkansas guide book before I climbed it. From the picture, it just didn't look that cool. Now that I've climbed it, I get it. This route is frickin awesome, and I don't seldom say that about sport climbs.

The first two bolts work through steep jugs. The next two bolts climb the coolest honeycomb rock I've ever seen. From the ground, the honeycombs look like choss, but they are solid. After the honeycombs, move left and clip one more fixed draw before the heel hook mantle. Then it's over. Cruise a few more bolts on massive, vertical chicken heads.

Serious, Chad Watkins, great eye. Awesome line. I will be back for the red point. Jun 5, 2015
Sam Elander
Bullhead City, AZ
  5.11b
Sam Elander   Bullhead City, AZ
  5.11b
Beta SpoilerIgnore the secure the solid heel-hook on the handhold at the bottom of the mantle. Just walk your hands as high up as possible, and then friction heel-hook in the middle of the mantle rock.

Such a superb route, so stoked to have gotten it and I see why it's on the cover of the AR climbing book. Sep 6, 2015

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