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Routes in Mortar Rock

Bench Wall V2 5+ R
Black Plague V6- 7A
Don't Worry, Be Snappy V12 8A+
Girls' Problem (sit), The V5 6C
Impossible Wall V8-9 7B+
Jungle fever V8 7B
Left Arete V0+ 4+
Nat's Traverse V8 7B
New Wave V9 7C
Odyssey , The V9 7C
Odyssey Sit, The V11-12 8A+
Over the Bulge V3 6A R
Ramp, The V4 6B
Red's Revenge V2+ 5+
Rimshot V2-3 5+
Stan's Treverse V8 7B
Sun Plague V6+ 7A
Sunshine (sit) V5 6C
Warmup Traverse V1 5
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 645 total · 18/month
Shared By: Caliza on Apr 26, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starts on Sunshine (sit) and climbs up the prow till reaching the "smiley hold" and the "rose move jug." But instead of topping out on the upcoming jugs, traverse right doing the last crux portion of Nat's Traverse. From there do Black Plague with "all holds on" to top the rock. Stout, mini endurance, pump-fest with great movements that falls in the V6 range. Doing the same start and topping The Ramp falls in the V5 realm.

Location

Behind the large sagging branch and in front of the bench.

Protection

Probably want at least 3 if not more pads to protect the base of the climb especially under Sunshine and Black Plague.

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SeanP101  
 
whoever submitted this must have big problems with their ego. 4 star rating for an eliminate link up? V6-? crux of nats? What you described is Not the crux of nats, because you start sunshine. After the rest (if you choose) on Nats you go into the bulge crux. Starting sunshine is completely different (and easier) because you avoid the crux slap on Nats (on the double arete.) This is a joke. Nats was done in 1976 and THAT is a classic, 4 star problem. May 22, 2015
Caliza
 
Caliza  
 
Hey Sean, disregarding your "ego" comment, I find it funny that this appears to have riled you up. This a pretty sick line and was submitted solely to augment the database. There's nothing about Sun Plague that is an eliminate, all holds between it's start and finish are on, and obviously it's a link up. It starts on Sunshine, a legit problem, that links into the traverse and tops Black Plague, another legit problem. Thank you for informing me on the history of Nat's which I already knew. Arguably the true crux of that section is the cross/rose move, which is needed for this problem as well, more so than the slap. Doing the direct top out to Black Plague after coming from the sit start makes it challenging and a sweet line. An example of an eliminate though would be Jungle Fever, which is posted on Mountain Project. Cheers. Jun 10, 2015
The Sit to Sunshine is V5. Doing the Sunshine Sit and linking that into the ramp is more like V6. The Sunshine sit avoids the crux moves of Nats. That crux for Nats is at least V6 whether you do the rose move or not. I could see the link up of Sunshine Sit into Black Pleague being V7 if you top out Left.

Also, Sean turning the corner in the beginning of Nat's is not the crux, thats like V5 Sep 22, 2015
Caliza
 
Caliza  
 
Depending on personal styles, the crux will be different for everyone. For me it's getting past the budge to the start of Black Plague and the Ramp, which you hit on the Sunshine link. What's the crux in your opinion Pat.

And Sean, Nat's is also an eliminate given that it eliminates the entire top ledge of the corner, which Natural Nat's uses. Furthermore one could argue that Nat's is a mega link-up between getting around the corner and the Ramp. Mar 1, 2016

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