Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Nat Smale, 1976
Page Views: 6,200 total · 30/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

The best problem in the Bay Area hands down! I can't believe it wasn't listed yet. The obvious line starting from the corner as you come up the stairs...pulling the corner is the first crux...(the top rail is off)...then the bulge right after the tree is the next crux...it ends on the ramp and is about 30 feet long..

Protection

Pad isn't really necessary...maybe for the ramp. You are no more than 3 feet off until the end.

Photos

Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
Aron and I have made a point to only list problems and climbs we have done. And while Nat's has provided hours of enjoyment and frustration, we haven't been able to pull it off. But hell yeah! From what little expertise I have on the route, I would completely agree that it kicks ass, and belongs on the site.Thanks for adding it AC. Sep 11, 2002
Anonymous Coward  
  V8
There are many cruxes on this amazing problem. As Brian mentions above, this route can provide weeks of entertainment working out the various sections -- it took me about 2 months to work it all out, and I loved every minute of it. The beta for each section is often as varied as the problem. EG, right after the bulge, I know of at least 4 different ways to traverse the section, each with interesting names: The Girls Variation, The Ladies Variation, The Mans Variation, and The Real Man's Variation (for what its worth, I use the Ladies Variation...the Real Man's Variation must be another grade harder at least). I agree that the sidepull crux moving around the first corner sets the tone; I think its tricky moving into the bulge, through the bulge, out of the bulge, across to the ramp, up the ramp, and over the top!! This problem is also hard right up to the very end -- before finally getting it, I must have done the entire thing 4 or 5 times just to fall off 1-3 moves from the end. But, once you get it, your body tension skills and endurance will be much better for it. I've heard it called V7, but I found it just as hard as the Mushroom Roof in Hueco, the archetypal V8, if not quite as crimpy. I've also seen it done in Teva's...amazing, especially the toe / heel hooks used to negotiate the bulge.

One last comment: don't let the high number prevent you from playing on this problem. I worked this route with a couple friends who'd never sent V5, and they had a ball working on sections, and even put together some really good links.

This problem (like the 45 degree wall, may it rest in peace) deserves 5 stars. Nov 21, 2002
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra