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Routes in Iron Horse Wall

Big Train S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Black stallion S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Brakeman, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Caboose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Engine No. 9 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heavy Metal Machine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Iron Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Locomotive Breath S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mexican Mouse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Monorail S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Night Train S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Steamroller S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Lee Terveen
Page Views: 244 total, 8/month
Shared By: lee terveen on Apr 19, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This route rolls through the main chunk of the Iron Horse Wall. Start on Heavy Metal Machine and pull a burly boulder problem on an undercling and small pocket. Climb 3 bolts (extend 3rd) and head left into 3rd bolt of Big Train. Pull the mono or shallow two finger crux, clip the next bolt and head left to the 5th bolt of Monorail. Keep traversing to 8th bolt of Iron Horse, where you get your first real rest. Head left into the Black Stallion which is an extension to Iron Horse and heads up and left. Don't lose steam while you finish on an enduro 3 bolts of crimping and screaming. One of the better routes I've climbed in Spearfish Canyon, full value.

Location

Iron horse wall, bluesky

Protection

10 bolts, extend a couple.

Photos

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Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
Yowza. Nicely done, Lee! Apr 20, 2015