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Routes in Iron Horse Wall

Big Train S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Black stallion S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Brakeman, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Caboose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Engine No. 9 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heavy Metal Machine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Iron Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Locomotive Breath S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mexican Mouse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Monorail S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Night Train S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Steamroller S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Nathan Renner
Page Views: 1,850 total, 14/month
Shared By: Greg Parker on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This route has shut down many 5.12 climbers. Start on the left side of the main wall and climb up decent pockets to the first bolt. Things get tricky from there. A notoriously difficult crux follows with a strenuous gaston section followed by big reaches to some small crimpers. The climbing stays continous and technical up to the bulge. At the base of the big, black bulge head up and right through the steep section, clipping a couple bolts before joining the finish of the Monorail.
Fun, long and involved route.

Protection

10 bolts, closed cold shut anchors.

Photos

12 a or b seems OK to me. Great route with an interesting variety of moves & a cool resting mono. The start seemed to wander left then back to the bolts here and there, at least on the chalked up holds. The upper jug haul was a blast too. Jun 23, 2010