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Routes in Iron Horse Wall

Big Train S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Black stallion S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Brakeman, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Caboose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Engine No. 9 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heavy Metal Machine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Iron Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Locomotive Breath S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mexican Mouse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Monorail S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Night Train S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Steamroller S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 2,487 total · 18/month
Shared By: Greg Parker on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Small, small, small pockets up the black streak. Tough right off the ground and continuously difficult for 5 bolts. The climbing is not too powerful, but it requires a lot of tenacity. The redpoint crux going to the 4th bolt is a bit of an eye-opener the first time you try it (I have to pull off of those?). Finishes on easier terrain ~ 5.9.
I got the FA of this route kind of unexpectedly.... "I'll just go up and try the moves"......


7 bolts, open cold shut anchors.
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
Nice job Allison!! As far as I know, it could be the FFA. The only other woman that I can think of that may have done it is Alli Rainey, but I don't remember ever hearing about it.... Apr 12, 2012
jamison coin
Spearfish, South Dakota
jamison coin   Spearfish, South Dakota
The Train has been seeing a lot of action lately. Allison Coin recently snagged what might be the first female ascent (??) Apr 12, 2012
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
I think you're right. Sorry Curt for not giving you your props. This route probably has seen more ascents than any other 13a in the canyon. Flight may be close (7-9 ascents?). It makes me feel all warm and fuzzy too. Jan 6, 2007
I think Curt Luv has done it as well. It sounds like it's seen a lot of action. That's awesome, it makes me all warm inside. Jan 6, 2007
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
How many ascents? Let's see....
From what I know, there was me, Christian, Nate, Dale, you, Scott Hahn, and Lee T. So maybe 7? I don't think Blake got back on it, and I'm not sure if any out-of-towners have done it. Usually I get word if anybody does any hard routes in Spearfish (only because I bug people for any new spray).
If anyone else has done it, speak up. Now is your time to shine! Jan 5, 2007
Greg, how many ascents has Big Train seen? Blake ever get back on it? Jan 3, 2007
This route is rad! One of my favorite routes to date. Where else do you get to match hand and foot while hanging off a mono? The Canyon rules! Rifle Sucks! Dec 23, 2006