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Routes in Iron Horse Wall

Big Train S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Black stallion S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Brakeman, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Caboose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Engine No. 9 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heavy Metal Machine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Iron Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Locomotive Breath S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mexican Mouse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Monorail S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Night Train S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Steamroller S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Cronin
Page Views: 64 total · 1/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jul 1, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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This is a good little 5.9 climb that would give an inspiring leader a much needed challenge. The crux rears its ugly head at the very end of the route, just before anchors.


Depending on your perspective, the developers could have named this route "Locomotive", but this train is heading north, thus this climb is the very first one you come to on the Iron Horse Wall. It is listed as Number 11 in the Spearfish Canyon Limestone Guidebook, and is kind of a pain in the neck to get to since it is up a hill, and tucked around the corner. Don't mistake it for Derail, which is a 5.11a/b climb just to the right of Locomotive Breath.


5 bolts. The guide book reports Open Shut anchors, but bring extra quickdraws just in case they have been replaced with closed shuts, which was the case on Locomotive Breath and Night Train.


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