All Locations > Colorado > Golden > Lookout Mtn Rd > Lover's Leap on Beave…

Short, Sweet Crack

Name: Short, Sweet Crack
Rating: 1.7

5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British R

Routes in Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook

L › R R › L A › Z

	ABBA T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	BB Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	BB Gun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	BB King S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Bed And Breakfast T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Black And Blue S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Butt Over Buttress TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Flatten the Curve S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Red Ryder V0 4
	School of Mimes (aka Lover's Bulge?) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Short, Sweet Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Trad, TR, 20 ft (6 m)
FA:	unknown. Someone must have done this before me!
Page Views:	1,501 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Corbett W on Feb 27, 2015
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: PRIVATE LAND Details

This climbing area is on land owned by Clear Creek Land Conservancy. Climbing on private land is a privilege; climb at your own risk and please tread lightly and practice leave no trace.

Description

This is a sweet hand and fist crack in a dihedral. It is only 15-20 feet, if that, above the boulders at the base. At the top, scramble across a gap and up to the top of Lover's Leap to the Beaver Brook trail.

Location

Just to the left of the "BB" routes, scramble up a short boulder ramp to the base of this route. It is fantastic fun to run from Windy Saddle with a climbing shoe in each hand, change into shoes, jam the crack, scramble up to the trail, change back into running shoes, and run back, if you're so inclined!

Protection

The crack itself could easily be protected with midsize cams. An anchor could easily be constructed at the top of the crack. I've only ever soloed it. A fall from the crack would be "bad", but, with good crack technique, you can easily lock yourself into the crack.