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Routes in Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook

ABBA T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
BB Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
BB Gun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
BB King S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bed And Breakfast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black And Blue S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Butt Over Buttress TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Project S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Red Ryder V0 4
Short, Sweet Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Deb Thompson
Page Views: 132 total, 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 15, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is an obvious line to the right of Bed and Breakfast that gains a hanging, soft, right-facing dihedral with some good holds and nice liebacks at times. It is a bit furry still, since it was cleaned with a nut tool and bare hands.

Start about 5 feet to the right of Bed and Breakfast. There is a funky move low that might be tricky to do as a lead, since the 1st piece of gear is probably 15-18 feet up. There is another interesting move about mid-route. About 40 feet up, angle left to the anchors for Bed and Breakfast.

The climbing seems a bit better than Bed And Breakfast.


This ascends the hanging, right-facing dihedral right of Bed and Breakfast.


A TR with directional(s) of a red Alien and orange Alien makes it work. For a lead, this would have limited options and would be likely R rated.

On lead, you can get a #0 TCU, yellow Alien (though, a hybrid green-yellow might be better), green Alien, small cam, red Alien, #1 Camalot, #0.5 Camalot, and a #0.75 Camalot. Note, the gear is iffy until the small cam.


Jay Eggleston
  5.8 PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8 PG13
This is still pretty dirty, and it is barely worth doing. There are a few fun moves in the dihedral but not many. Sep 15, 2014