Avg: 0.8 from 6 votes
Routes in Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook
|ABBA T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|BB Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|BB Gun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|BB King S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Bed And Breakfast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Black And Blue S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Butt Over Buttress TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Project S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|Red Ryder V0 4|
|Short, Sweet Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 50 ft|
|Page Views:||132 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Jun 15, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
PRIVATE LAND Details
This climbing area is on land owned by Clear Creek Land Conservancy. Climbing on private land is a privilege; climb at your own risk and please tread lightly and practice leave no trace.
DescriptionThis is an obvious line to the right of Bed and Breakfast that gains a hanging, soft, right-facing dihedral with some good holds and nice liebacks at times. It is a bit furry still, since it was cleaned with a nut tool and bare hands.
Start about 5 feet to the right of Bed and Breakfast. There is a funky move low that might be tricky to do as a lead, since the 1st piece of gear is probably 15-18 feet up. There is another interesting move about mid-route. About 40 feet up, angle left to the anchors for Bed and Breakfast.
The climbing seems a bit better than Bed And Breakfast.
LocationThis ascends the hanging, right-facing dihedral right of Bed and Breakfast.
ProtectionA TR with directional(s) of a red Alien and orange Alien makes it work. For a lead, this would have limited options and would be likely R rated.
On lead, you can get a #0 TCU, yellow Alien (though, a hybrid green-yellow might be better), green Alien, small cam, red Alien, #1 Camalot, #0.5 Camalot, and a #0.75 Camalot. Note, the gear is iffy until the small cam.