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Routes in Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook

ABBA T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
BB Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
BB Gun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
BB King S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bed And Breakfast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black And Blue S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Butt Over Buttress TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Project S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Red Ryder V0 4
Short, Sweet Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Deb Thompson
Page Views: 132 total, 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 15, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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PRIVATE LAND Details

Description

This is an obvious line to the right of Bed and Breakfast that gains a hanging, soft, right-facing dihedral with some good holds and nice liebacks at times. It is a bit furry still, since it was cleaned with a nut tool and bare hands.

Start about 5 feet to the right of Bed and Breakfast. There is a funky move low that might be tricky to do as a lead, since the 1st piece of gear is probably 15-18 feet up. There is another interesting move about mid-route. About 40 feet up, angle left to the anchors for Bed and Breakfast.

The climbing seems a bit better than Bed And Breakfast.

Location

This ascends the hanging, right-facing dihedral right of Bed and Breakfast.

Protection

A TR with directional(s) of a red Alien and orange Alien makes it work. For a lead, this would have limited options and would be likely R rated.

On lead, you can get a #0 TCU, yellow Alien (though, a hybrid green-yellow might be better), green Alien, small cam, red Alien, #1 Camalot, #0.5 Camalot, and a #0.75 Camalot. Note, the gear is iffy until the small cam.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8 PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8 PG13
This is still pretty dirty, and it is barely worth doing. There are a few fun moves in the dihedral but not many. Sep 15, 2014