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Routes in Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook

ABBA T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
BB Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
BB Gun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
BB King S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bed And Breakfast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black And Blue S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Butt Over Buttress TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Project S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Red Ryder V0 4
Short, Sweet Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: Deb Thompson
Page Views: 156 total, 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 15, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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PRIVATE LAND Details

Description

This is a short climb that sort of begs to be climbed. It pulls a tiny overlap with interesting moves that make it worth the dabble.

Move up to an obvious jug ~10 feet up. Some nice footwork, an insecure lieback, and a chip get past the bulge. Then, you get over your feet as the holds seem licheny. Continue up on easier terrain until you get to the small roof above. Traverse left to the anchors for Bed and Breakfast.

This may be a bit furry, since it was cleaned with bare hands and a nut tool. Update, it's been cleaned gentle with a wire brush, now. Given the aspect of the route, it'll likely need to be brushed every time it gets climbed.

If you set a TR above the roof, you could continue above.

Location

This ascends the concavity ~perhaps 20 feet right of Bed and Breakfast.

Protection

A TR with swing potential off the anchors for Bed and Breakfast with a red Alien directional will keep you off the deck. You might be tempted to put a couple cams in the angling crack to start, but it'll be a while until you can get anything in above that. It would be a headpoint at best.

Photos

Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
Begs to be brushed. Sep 14, 2014