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Routes in Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook

ABBA T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
BB Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
BB Gun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
BB King S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bed And Breakfast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black And Blue S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Butt Over Buttress TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Project S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Red Ryder V0 4
Short, Sweet Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 20 ft
FA: unknown. Someone must have done this before me!
Page Views: 549 total, 16/month
Shared By: Corbett W on Feb 27, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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PRIVATE LAND Details

Description

This is a sweet hand and fist crack in a dihedral. It is only 15-20 feet, if that, above the boulders at the base. At the top, scramble across a gap and up to the top of Lover's Leap to the Beaver Brook trail.

Location

Just to the left of the "BB" routes, scramble up a short boulder ramp to the base of this route. It is fantastic fun to run from Windy Saddle with a climbing shoe in each hand, change into shoes, jam the crack, scramble up to the trail, change back into running shoes, and run back, if you're so inclined!

Protection

The crack itself could easily be protected with midsize cams. An anchor could easily be constructed at the top of the crack. I've only ever soloed it. A fall from the crack would be "bad", but, with good crack technique, you can easily lock yourself into the crack.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.7
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.7
I now know where this is, and I climbed it today. It is longer than 20'. It is about 80' to the top of the rock. The actual crack is only about 20' long. I think it is harder than 5.5. I think it is 5.7. I am glad I did not solo it, but the route is fun. Jun 25, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.7
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.7
Where is this? A description would be nice. Feb 28, 2015