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Routes in Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook

ABBA T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
BB Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
BB Gun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
BB King S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bed And Breakfast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black And Blue S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Butt Over Buttress TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Project S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Red Ryder V0 4
Short, Sweet Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Jared Hostetter
Page Views: 235 total, 3/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Apr 22, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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PRIVATE LAND Details

Description

Pull up on great jugs and traverse right to a clean, incipient crack in a bulge, load up (curved stopper, green Alien, RPs) and pull through to stand up and clip a bolt. Continue up the slab above with good gear to the chains.

Location

This is on the Northwest face behind a large pine tree growing close to the wall.

Protection

Stoppers, small wires, Aliens, #0.5 through double 1 & 2 Camalots, one bolt, anchor bolts with chains.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8+
This is a fun route but is more difficult than it appears from below. It was not as easy as I thought it would be while looking at it. The crux is short though, and I think it is worthwhile. Sep 14, 2014
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
 
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
 
5.8 sounds good to me. I thought it felt like a .9, but it's always harder when you're climbing through the lichen and munge on the FA. Jared gave it a good brushing down when we finished, so I'm not too surprised it goes easier. May 15, 2012
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.8+
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.8+
Nice addition to the crag. Slippery lichen aside (will clean off with more use) this new line seemed no harder than 5.8 and takes a variety of trad gear. A #1 and #2 cam plus a green Alien will protect this, but so will a number of stopper, hex, and tri-cam options in horizontal cracks both below and above the single bolt. From the ground, it's hard to see the single bolt about 20 ft up (above the bulge). May 15, 2012