Elevation: 6,999 ft
GPS: 39.735, -105.265 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,207 total · 131/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Oct 8, 2010 with updates from Jay Eggleston
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: PRIVATE LAND Details


This small crag, visible from the Windy Saddle parking lot, sits in the forest above Clear Creek. Climbers who brave the long approach are rewarded with a clean, steep slab that gets morning sun and evening shade. The routes are still a bit green, but with traffic they'll clean up nicely. With its close proximity to the Beaver Brook trail, I wasn't too surprised to learn the crag had a historic name... Lover's Leap, of course.

Getting There

From the Windy Saddle parking lot on Lookout Mountain, hike out the Lookout Mountain trail to the Beaver Brook trail 0.2 miles. Hike an additional 1.4 miles to the Lover's Leap overlook on the right where routes can be seen on the slab below. To reach the base, hike past the overlook and on down the trail to a faint switchback, climbers' trail, that leaves the main trail on the right and heads back to the bottom of the crag. Expect to take ~40 minutes.

Eds. Note that the speed limit is 20 mph on Lookout Mountain Rd, and the police do patrol there.

Also, there are rattlesnakes on the trail at times here.


A. Short, Sweet Crack, 5 R, 1p, 20', gear or TR.
B. BB Gun, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
C1. BB King, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
C2. BB Brain, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.

D. School of Mimes, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
E. Black And Blue, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
F1. Doug's Variation, 10-, 1p, 50', TR.
F2. Bed And Breakfast, 8+, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.
G. ABBA, 8 PG-13 or R, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
H. Butt Over Buttress, 10+, 1p, 45', TR.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
BB Gun
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
BB Brain
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
BB King
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black And Blue
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
BB Gun
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
BB Brain
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
BB King
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Black And Blue
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season


Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
Nice crag and good work, Kirk. Pretty steep and consistent face climbing with enough small features to keep it moderate but make you think. A bit mossy since it's virgin rock, but it will clean up once the word gets out. Sheltered SE exposure and a 30-minute hike from the road. Oct 15, 2010
Mike Morin
Glen, NH
Mike Morin   Glen, NH
High quality crag, fun routes. Oct 19, 2010
Alex A  
Some more fun Kirk Miller routes. Nice job, Kirk. Nice hike, will take about 35 to 45 minutes to get there. May 5, 2011
Superior, CO
Wayne DENSMORE   Superior, CO
A fun set of 3 climbs that are well bolted. 5.9 is my limit and I was comfortable leading (and falling on) BB Gun and would have been comfortable on the others. Next time maybe I can skip the falling part. May 5, 2011
Andrew S.
Andrew S.   NorWeb
Climbed these with Mr. Kirk Miller today. Couldn't have asked for a better partner, climbs, atmosphere. Great routes, can't wait to do Ugly Stick. Jul 6, 2011
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Nice job, Kirk. The base of the climb could use a little trail work. It was difficult to not knock dirt and rocks down on the party belaying on the rightmost route. If you need help, I'm volunteering. Sep 12, 2011
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
There was a little rattler on the trail probably ~0.5 mile from the parking lot today. Aug 8, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
This is a good crag but a little far away for the average sport climber that does not like walking. Dec 6, 2012
Chick on Crack
Superior, CO
Chick on Crack   Superior, CO
Fun climbs, peaceful area. My partner and I leveled the dirt for a more secure belay stance at the top of the crag. We plan to bring shovels next time and secure rock for safer stances. I did slip upon lowering him; fortunately, I was using a Grigri.

Thanks to everyone who bolted the routes...awesome bolt placement, and it was easy to set a TR from the far left route to the center route.

The rock offers unique movement & technique and routes can be climbed in several variations, making this tiny area worth the hike. May 20, 2014
Highlands Ranch, CO
teece303   Highlands Ranch, CO
I love this peaceful little crag: every line that I've climbed is of very high quality.

Word of caution: yahoos like to hike out here and throw their beer bottles at the crag from the top. So not only is broken glass very common at the belay (watch your rope), the last time we also found broken glass in some of the jugs at the anchors. Be cautious what you grab in a deep hold: you could get a nasty cut. Jun 2, 2014
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
Well worth the hike out here. Had it all to ourselves from 9-1 on a Saturday morning. The climbs are good fun and well bolted. BB King is the best route of the 9s.

The belay area for BB Gun could really use some work/erosion protection, it is hard to find a good lead belay stance.

Be careful with people throwing rocks and whatever else off the cliff. My belayer was almost taken out by someone....

Also on the hike out at the fork, it is the middle trail, not the one down the hill to the right or the u-turn up the hill. Jul 26, 2014
Matthew Abraham
Denver, CO
Matthew Abraham   Denver, CO
Heads up. The 1.5 mile marker on the Beaver Brook trail has recently been changed and moved. Look for the Lover's Leap approach trail on the right side of the BB trail between the 1.0 and 1.5 mile marker. Jun 18, 2017