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Carving Pumpkins
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 37
votes
Routes in Sleepy Hollow
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Bewitched S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Carving Pumpkins S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Friendly Ghost, The TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Nightmare on Crack Street T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Saw TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trick or Treat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02557, -116.14595 |
| FA: | Chris Baumann and Bob Gaines, December 2014 |
| Page Views: | 2,409 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Jan 29, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is the longest route on the cliff, second from the right.
Start with an undercling, then power through (10b/c; somewhat height dependent) a slightly overhanging bulge to a ledge (3 bolts). Continue up an easier corner on orange varnish past a 4th and 5th bolt, then, at the 6th bolt, move left at a tricky undercling (5.10-), then back right past a 7th bolt up to the top and a chain anchor.
The 7th bolt was not used on the first ascent and was added later to protect the follower (or for toproping) from a bad swing and potential injurious fall.
For a harder (10+) direct finish: move right at the 6th bolt and power over an overhang. No need to clip the 7th bolt for a directional if toproping the direct finish.
Beware of crumbly rock at the ledge half way up and at the very top.
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