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Sleepy Hollow Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Sleepy Hollow

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bewitched S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Carving Pumpkins S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Friendly Ghost, The TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Nightmare on Crack Street T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Saw TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Trick or Treat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	4,298 ft	1,310 m
GPS:	34.02557, -116.14595 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	12,076 total · 87/month
Shared By:	Bob Gaines on Jan 29, 2015
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This is a short, overhanging cliff with an assortment of moderate sport climbs, discovered by Chris Baumann in 2014. The cliff faces north, and is shady most of the time. The routes are predominately sport climbs with bolt anchors.

Much of the climbing is on nicely featured patina with positive holds, but there is some chossy rock, and some holds have broken unexpectedly, so it's a good idea for the belayer to wear a helmet.

Getting There

Approach from the Barker Dam Road. From the Echo "T" drive .6 miles east (toward Barker Dam Parking Lot) and park at the third pullout on the right (.6 miles east of the Echo "T" ). This is about 1/4 mile before the Barker Dam Parking lot, and the same parking as for More Monkey Than Funky.

From the pullout, look for the biggest pine tree, at the top of the formation, about 200 yards left of the More Monkey Than Funky route. Sleepy Hollow is directly under this tree, hidden from view, facing north.

Walk north (following an old, fallen-down chickenwire fenceline) and head toward the notch/pass just left of the huge More Monkey Than Funky rock massif. This notch or pass is about 200 yards left of the More Monkey Than Funky route. As you approach this gap in the rock formations, Sleepy Hollow will be to your right, facing north, hidden until you're almost there.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sleepy Hollow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 39 ● Trick or Treat Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 34 ● Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 37 ● Carving Pumpkins Sport