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Routes in Sleepy Hollow

Bewitched S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Carving Pumpkins S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Friendly Ghost, The TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Saw TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trick or Treat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Description

This is a short, overhanging cliff with an assortment of moderate sport climbs, discovered by Chris Baumann in 2014. The cliff faces north, and is shady most of the time. All the routes are sport climbs with bolt anchors.

Much of the climbing is on nicely featured patina with positive holds, but there is some chossy rock, and some holds have broken unexpectedly, so it's a good idea for the belayer to wear a helmet.

Getting There

Approach from the Barker Dam Road. From the Echo "T" drive .6 miles east (toward Barker Dam Parking Lot) and park at the third pullout on the right (.6 miles east of the Echo "T" ). This is about 1/4 mile before the Barker Dam Parking lot, and the same parking as for More Monkey Than Funky.

From the pullout, look for the biggest pine tree, at the top of the formation, about 200 yards left of the More Monkey Than Funky route. Sleepy Hollow is directly under this tree, hidden from view, facing north.

Walk north (following an old, fallen-down chickenwire fenceline) and head toward the notch/pass just left of the huge More Monkey Than Funky rock massif. This notch or pass is about 200 yards left of the More Monkey Than Funky route. As you approach this gap in the rock formations, Sleepy Hollow will be to your right, facing north, hidden until you're almost there.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sleepy Hollow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carving Pumpkins
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Carving Pumpkins 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
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Super fun routes!
However!
The top anchors are super questionable in my opinion. The bolts are placed in hollow sounding rock. Plus the hangers over Carving Pumpkins are super scary. Once the chains are equalized, the outward load on the hangers are nearly 45 degrees outward...not normal. Plus the rock behind the hangers were not carved out enough as to where the hangers are far from setting flat on the rock. They both are spinners and wiggle way too easy. The rock looks solid, but sounds hollow. Super awesome natural top-set pro is very close and good for all routes.
I can't figure for the life of me as to why the top anchor is so far off to the right of the top of Goules Just Want To Have Fun. It's a super schetchy traverse to the top-set anchors. A fall on lead attempting the last move makes for a dangerous swinging fall...not cool! Those anchors should just end at the head wall straight above the last bolt.
Then there's the anchors above Trick Or Treat. Hollow sounding rock! Looks super solid. But what's really going on under those bolts. Tap the anchors with a carabiner, it's resonates with a hollow sound. Sounds like a bongo! Hollow rock!
Again, good natural pro on the top. Plus several super easy walk offs from the top.
One last issue.... most the bolts could have been placed in better, more solid spots just inches of where set. I'm referring to the bolts on the routes themselves.
I must reiterate.... Super fun wall nonetheless!!! Worth playing on. Just beware. Nov 10, 2017
Doug18  
Fun routes, Set up TR for a group, good place to check out. Oh we had the place to ourselves on a busy weekend. Nice! Nov 16, 2015
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Yippee, thanks Bob & Chris. Jan 30, 2015

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