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Routes in Weavers Needle

Dutchman's Gold, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
El Grungo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Farewell Mr. L.Arrow T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
West Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, Grade III
FA: Friends
Page Views: 531 total · 13/month
Shared By: sean peters on Jan 15, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

This 200 foot pitch is a variation to the first pitch (possible two) of Dutchman's Gold. It begins on the other side of the prow or just south of Dutchman's Gold, maybe 200 feet.

Climb up obvious cobblestone featured rock to gain large ledge with a few agaves. There is a crack on the left side of this ledge. Climb crack, somewhat difficult to start but gets nice the higher you climb. The crack ends on a loose ledge with more agaves. The next several feet involve climbing over terrible, loose, large blocks. After you pass the block gauntlet a nice ledge awaits and a twin pair of cracks are obvious. Climb the cracks, solid and fun (5.8) to the spacious belay ledge. The ledge is the same one used for Dutchman's Gold.

This pitch might be a safer alternative to pitch one and two (depending on how your break up the pitches) of Dutchman's Gold. It still felt a tad frightening.

Location

Route is on east side of Weavers Needle, a couple hundred feet south of the start of Dutchman's Gold.

Use Bluff Spring and Terrapin Trail(s) and your own path to the base.

Down climb or rappel, standard descent off the Needle.

Protection

Same rack we always use, gear to #5 and doubles of some stuff. Belay bolts on ledge. Either continue on the remaining pitches of Dutchman's Gold or rappel back to earth with two ropes. One bolt will be discovered along the way.

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