Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Larry Treiber, Abbink, Hill|
|Page Views:||808 total, 23/month|
|Shared By:||sean peters on Jan 15, 2015|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
DescriptionEl Grungo is much easier than its cousin several hundred feet south, The Dutchman's Gold. Both are exciting and fun, I would climb El Grungo before Dutchman's Gold to warmup and prep. the mind.
Pitch one climbs up brushy gully/crack to good ledge.
Pitch two is a semi-long traverse out left (south) to a loose flake that is fairly large. I think we belayed at the base of flake.
Pitch three climbs the flake and continues above on solid rock to a belay wherever you want to stop.
The remaining pitches continue upward and pass some short stemming moves, over shrubs and some short faces before reaching the summit.
The crux is climbing the loose flake and a few moves above but I remember good gear on good rock.
LocationThe route begins closer to the northern end of the Needle on the east face. There is an obvious notch that separates the main needle and a smaller formation to the north.
Hike Bluff Springs Trail to Terrapin Trail and find your own way to the base.
Down climb or rappel back to packs, standard descent for the Needle.