Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,974 total · 109/month
Shared By: Mark E Dixon on May 7, 2012 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

Weaver's Needle is a striking summit but don't expect superb climbing. Nevertheless, well worth the effort. The peak has a lower south summit and the true north summit. This route approaches the col between them from the west. An alternative from the east is said to be easier but has a longer approach.

The west side approach begins at the Peralta trailhead. Hike over Fremont Saddle, then another 1.75 miles till below the peak. Total of 4 miles of hiking. You next to take one of the cairned trails across the wash and find the cairned trail up the hillside headed towards the gully between the summits. A rocky ridge drops down from the south summit and is bounded on the left (looking uphill) by a steep ravine. The trail you want goes up the open hillside to the left (again, looking uphill) of the ravine. It is worth finding the trail to reduce erosion and to have a generally easier time to the approach.

Follow the trail and do a little scrambling in the gully until you reach an obvious place to rope up, just below a pipe sticking out of the wall.

The first pitch ends at a ledge on the left wall, about 100 feet up.

The second pitch climbs the steepening gully and exits onto the col by going UNDER the chockstones at the top (easiest), or by bypassing the chockstones on the left or right at a slightly higher standard.  The bolted anchors are on climber's right of the chockstone.

The third pitch is very short, a class 4 wall on the north side of the notch.

After the third pitch scramble up along an obvious trail until just below the summit.

Pitch 4 heads left then up a 'juggy crack' to a horn which can be used as an anchor.

Scramble the short distance to the summit and enjoy the view!

To descend, scramble back to bolt anchors near the top of the 4th pitch (to the left looking downhill.) This rappel puts you back on the third class trail which you should follow to the top of the 3rd pitch. Downclimb or rappel this short pitch, then look for bolt anchors atop the large chockstone in the notch.

A double rope rappel will get you back to the bottom of pitch 1.

I believe you could use one of the pipes as an intermediate anchor if you only had a single 60 meter rope, but judge for yourself.

We used route descriptions from "Rock Climbing Arizona" by Stewart Green, and a write-up on the website hikearizona.com by "Fritzski". Many thanks to both.

Protection

A set of stoppers and a couple of small cams. Some longer slings are useful.

Photos