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Routes in Weavers Needle

Dutchman's Gold, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
El Grungo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Farewell Mr. L.Arrow T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
West Chimney T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Elevation: 4,000 ft
Page Views: 19,056 total, 146/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 14, 2007 with updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Weaver's Needle, named for Army scout and mountain man Pauline Weaver, is one of the all-time landmarks of central Arizona. It was even cited by legendary Dutchman Jacob Waltz as one of the locator marks for his gold mine. It can be seen for miles and miles, rising over the mountains just east of Phoenix. Surprisingly, the route to the top is relatively mild for modern rock climbers.

The peak is the remnant of a huge stack of fused volcanic ash that eroded to form the pinnacle. The summit elevation is 4,555 feet (1,388 m). As with all climbing in the Superstitions, climbers should exercise extreme care. The rock in the Supes can be pretty bad at times, so check your holds, place pro when you can, and wear a helmet!
PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Getting There

Approach the Needle by hiking north on the Peralta Trail from the Peralta Trailhead up and over Fremont Saddle. You can't miss it.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Weavers Needle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
West Chimney
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Chimney 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Trad 4 pitches
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
August West
Oakland, CA
August West   Oakland, CA
Anybody know anything about a 3-5 pitch 5.9 up the north side? When I was last up there in October, 2010, there was an entry in the register from some guys who claimed to have gone at it that way. It's steep enough for it, though can't say anything about the rock quality. Feb 7, 2012
Dakota
Gunnison, Colorado
Dakota   Gunnison, Colorado
The main picture on this page of the Needle from the East, led us to ascend the East facing gully. The route that everyone seems to be talking about (with the two fancy rap bolts) ascends the West(ish) facing gully. YOu can go up the East gullly just fine, but there seems to be significantly less pro (not that there's much anyways) and a lot more loose rock (complete with sketchily slung chockstone dominoe pile). THE WEST GULLY IS MORE FUN. Jan 3, 2012
Start early! It took our group of four people just under 12 hours from car to car. None of us had done this before, so there was some route finding delays, but if you budget more time than you think you will need, you won't be sorry. The first two pitches are the technical climbing. The second pitch is a short (12') easy climb and the rest of the way to the top is scrambling. Bring your rope with you, as there are rap rings to help your descent from the top. Also, on the final rap down the first pitch, a 60 meter rope will be just short. Best bet is to stop at a good point about half way and reset the rappel station. At the top, don't forget to sign the log book in the green ammo can! Mar 16, 2009
I tried this climb and we did not summit, ran out of time. If we would have been prepared to stay a night on top that would have been easier and we would have summited no problem. So climb and hike fast if you want to do it all in a days push, I would recommend camping just for the fun of it and then you don't have to rush. Nov 17, 2008
Ian F.  
Well worth it to camp on top. Best camping site I have been at yet. Views are amazing. We only took what we needed and left the other pack at the base. Not so much fun leading the pitch with a large pack though, but definitely adds to the excitement. If possible the second should carry the pack. In my case that was not an option. Mar 19, 2008

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