Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Nate Ball, Emma Huang, Jeff Lin (01/2015)
Page Views: 316 total · 7/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Jan 11, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

If climbed following the first pitch of Jasmine Beauty, this makes the best and longest moderate trad climb at Long Dong.

From the JB ledge, take the hand crack straight up the face. Expect to spend more time jamming on this route than any other route in the country. The crack thins as you layback a juggy flake into a slight overhang. This is the crux - sick finger/hand locks. Shake out at a concave section before pulling through the final broken section. Beware of the big flake to your left; the chunky rock above aint too bad. Climb delicately over the grassy ledges and belay at a nice hand crack just below the topout. There is not a single bolt on this route... as it should be.

The name in Mandarin: shuàiqì èmó

Location

The south-facing aspect of Grand Auditorium, left of Via del Drago and right of Upside Down

Protection

Gear to 2"

Photos

Def. one of the best trad route around 5.9-10a range at LD! Jan 12, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10
On second go, definitely not 5.9+... except maybe by Valley standards. Apr 27, 2015