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Routes in (5) Grand Auditorium

Arupa S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Face The Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freedom Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Handsome Devil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jasmine Beauty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obvious Weakness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Other Peoples Pigeons T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Puro Filipino T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Strada del Verme T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upside Down S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Verdon du Taiwan S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Via del Drago T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown unknowns T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 451 total, 6/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Dec 4, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

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Description

Pitch 1 - Climb through some choss and over grassy steps to a set of parallel dihedrals. Climb these (5.8) up to the ledge. Beware of loose rock along the way. Belay on gear at the ledge.

Alternatively, climb Strada del Verme slightly to the left. Belay at the base of the crack.

Pitch 2 - Start up the steep crack on fists and thrutches. The crack is flared inward, so it can be tricky to protect. Getting into the pod is the first crux. You can get a good rest here before you chimney out the right side. Pull yourself out of the overhang on arm jams, gastons, or any other kind of awkward maneuvering you can come up with. Once through this last bit of off-width, cruise overhanging but easier jams and face holds to an amazing belay perch. Belay on gear.

Descend - Forge upwards to the cape trail and descend via School Gate or Golden Valley; OR descend a faint trail back down to the base of the climb - there is one low 5th-class move.

Location

From Music Hall, head right and up through the razor plants, gunning for the obvious crack at northeastern end of the auditorium.

Protection

Gear to 4" - doubles in the bigger stuff
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
This route has expansion bolts at the top of the first and second pitch, but they probably won't be there for much longer. There are super-rusty hangers on them which should not be trusted. This is a trad route, and will probably remain so in the purest sense.

Bring gear for anchors and walk-off. Jul 8, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
Photo has been edited to remove the red line which incorrectly indicated the route. Sep 3, 2012
Anmin Deng
Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
Anmin Deng   Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
The route of red solid line on the attached topo photo is not the route "Via del Drago". The route "Via del Drago" on the attached photo is on the right to the red solid line. It is an off width vertical crack on the slightly overhanging brighter color wall which faces to the right on the topo photo. Sep 3, 2012