Avg: 3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 110 ft (33 m)|
|Page Views:||783 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Mar 10, 2013|
This is an ultra-wicked 35m route that feels and is quite adventurous. The route is isolated to a tall "clean" wall of the Grand Auditorium's north face, which takes some getting to. This whole route can be easily protected traditionally.
Start at the middle of three bolt lines, beginning with a thin corner crack. Getting up to the first bolt takes some commitment, and/or could be protected with gear. Continue up this crack, with some excellent jamming and laybacking, up to a ledge. Step back left and return to the somewhat brushy crack. Stay in this just long enough to reach the namesake arete. The exposure increases as you commit to the arete, and eventually pull through small holds into the horizontal below the overhang. The crescendo of the route is mounting the arete to pull through into the corner. From here, it's mostly easier but still wild climbing through what might be some loose blocks. Step right out to Boot Flake, and enjoy the view from your perch.
From this anchor, you can continue straight up through Verdon du Taiwan or up and right to Provence Roof. The former can be protected traditionally as well. Descent is roughly 33 meters (110 feet). A single 60m should barely get you down. Knot those ends!