Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (5) Grand Auditorium

Arupa S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Face The Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freedom Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Handsome Devil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jasmine Beauty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obvious Weakness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Other Peoples Pigeons T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Puro Filipino T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Strada del Verme T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upside Down S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Verdon du Taiwan S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Via del Drago T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown unknowns T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Marcelo Berti Lungo
Page Views: 78 total, 3/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Aug 22, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


0 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Peregrine Falcon Nesting Details
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Originally freed in 2010 by a strong sport climber and graded 13b (this is what the guidebook gives it), and wasn't freed again until 2015 by strong crack climbers and re-graded at 12b.

Original gear beta is 5's and 6's. Ryan and Garrreth did it with 1's and 2's. Ana and I went up there and aided the shit out of it, and enjoyed having all of the above.

Loose, mostly easy climbing across ledges gets you to an awkward bolted stance below the roof. Step left on a narrow, unprotected ledge without any hand holds to get into the giant detached flake, then get up into "the stance." The business is only about 15 feet of 60-70 degree overhanging hand/fist crack into an offwidth, then another 40 feet of much easier climbing to the anchor.

Check out this video Ryan made:

Location

Can't miss it

Protection

Gear to 5" (for normal mortals)
316 steel (2011)

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments