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Routes in (5) Grand Auditorium

Arupa S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Face The Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freedom Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Handsome Devil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jasmine Beauty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obvious Weakness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Other Peoples Pigeons T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Puro Filipino T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Strada del Verme T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upside Down S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Verdon du Taiwan S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Via del Drago T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown unknowns T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Unknown (10/13 by Nate & Emma)
Page Views: 83 total · 2/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Oct 10, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

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Description

Scramble up a short bench of rock to a gap below the first continuous crack. Begin the fun by getting up into the double crack system and follow this over easy stone to a ledge. Make a bouldery move off the ledge to gain another cool crack system and move into some interesting texture rock above. From another small ledge, jam your way into another crack. You can take it directly or find big holds nearby. At the bushy ledges, the climbing turns into scrambling. Go left here and mantel onto the spacious belay ledge. 2" gear is essential for the anchor. You wouldn't want to go straight into the next pitch - the rope drag would be awful.

The second pitch follows the obvious corner dihedral. There is still some loose rock in the middle, and some of the flakey holds may come off with more ascents. As it is now, it is spicy, but very easy. Climb gently. A combination of jamming, stemming, and face climbing gets you to the rough-textured and pocketed triangular inset at the top of the dihedral, below the roof. The moves are slightly overhanging, but the holds are very positive. It may seem intuitive to punch straight up and out the roof, but there doesn't appear to be any possible placements, and a fall would slam you back into the wall. You can step out right with an extended .5" piece, reach around the corner and get a great jug, then move over onto the ledge. A final series of airy but very easy moves puts you on a small grassy ledge with many belay options. Building an anchor at the level ground above is not recommended - there are few placements and it would increase rope drag.

This route is not in any guidebooks, and was quite an adventure to discover, clean, and send. Although according to local knowledge "it was climbed many years ago," the memories made on that day - involving lots of watermelon, Lucky Strikes, and great friends - have inspired me to name it and assert our small bit of influence here.

The name in Mandarin: mòlì měinǚ

Location

On the south-facing wall of the Grand Auditorium, in the dihedral left of the obvious wide crack of Via del Drago and right of the sharp arete of Arupa

Protection

Gear to 3"

Photos

Long reach is often required for the 1st pitch(I'm 5'4),but lots of good features that you can step onto. Oct 11, 2013