Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Louie Anderson
Page Views: 308 total · 6/month
Shared By: John Ericson on Nov 10, 2014
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

This is arguably one of the better hard 5.12s at the quarry. Start on easy climbing up to a low crux going over the bulge, the climbing here is fairly sustained until completing the mantel. After a typical quarry style rest on a ledge, climb up several feet to a second shorter and more powerful crux. Easier climbing brings one up to the arete next to taboo. The final crux adds a lot of character to the route. The movement is fun and exposed. Unfortunately, the bolting is a bit odd in this section. An easier and thought provoking featured slab leads to the anchors.

Location

Located between Violator and Original Sin.

Protection

Bolts, less than 20. A 70 m rope will just make it to the ledge. Lower to the anchor on Original Sin, when using a 60 m. There is an anchor bolt on ledge for the belayer. Double rap ring anchor.

Photos

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John Ericson
A Toyota Prius Luxury Mobil…
  5.12c
John Ericson   A Toyota Prius Luxury Mobil…
  5.12c
A four star route, if you give out stars as liberally as most on mountain project do. Nov 11, 2014