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Routes in (m) Taboo Area

A Handful of Harpies S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cavorting S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Forbidden Fruit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Magic Mushroom S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Momentum S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Original Sin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seduction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sins of the Flesh S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sky Pilot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Solidarity S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Taboo T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Violator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Louie Anderson
Page Views: 262 total, 7/month
Shared By: John Ericson on Nov 10, 2014
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

This is arguably one of the better hard 5.12s at the quarry. Start on easy climbing up to a low crux going over the bulge, the climbing here is fairly sustained until completing the mantel. After a typical quarry style rest on a ledge, climb up several feet to a second shorter and more powerful crux. Easier climbing brings one up to the arete next to taboo. The final crux adds a lot of character to the route. The movement is fun and exposed. Unfortunately, the bolting is a bit odd in this section. An easier and thought provoking featured slab leads to the anchors.

Location

Located between Violator and Original Sin.

Protection

Bolts, less than 20. A 70 m rope will just make it to the ledge. Lower to the anchor on Original Sin, when using a 60 m. There is an anchor bolt on ledge for the belayer. Double rap ring anchor.

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John Ericson
USA
 
John Ericson   USA
 
A four star route, if you give out stars as liberally as most on mountain project do. Nov 11, 2014