Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Page Views: 3,280 total · 23/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details


Start up a short section of easy slab to the base of a left-facing flake system which is jammed/liebacked to a cruxy sequence transitioning into another flake system; being tall helps, as does good technique. Once established in the upper flake race the pump as you climb the spectacular flake system, finishing with a second crux as you work fingery edges up and left, and then back right to anchors on a large ledge.

Athletic and pumpy with great positioning which makes this route a highly recommended route for the grade and also serves as an ideal warm-up for the harder lines in the area.

  • There is an extension route to this called Wicked Violator (5.13a)**** - 17 bolts to anchors.


Located midway between the obvious left-facing corner of Taboo and Magic Mushroom, this climbs a series of steep flakes two routes right of Original Sin.


12 bolts, triple ring anchor


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Originally started from a ledge below the start of the flake system, there's now two bolts to start from ground level. Make sure to use a 70 meter rope if belaying from the ground or be extra careful when lowering off with anything shorter. Apr 2, 2008
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
Big holds with only a couple of short crux sequences makes this a soft tick. The climbing is great however, and well worth doing. Nov 15, 2008
Augsburg, Germany
HeatherB-Radley   Augsburg, Germany
This is such a fun route! with 2 distinct cruxes and definitely a battle against the pump.... its my personal work in progress project until i can do it totally clean!!! :)
The info above is spot on when it said 'helps to be tall'- for little people like me it felt really challenging... ha, ended up dyno-ing the lower crux at the (joking) suggestion of my partner- but no one was more shocked than me when it actually worked!!! sooo... maybe that's the beta for short girls??
but yeah, 5 stars, super fun! can't wait to do more work on it! Oct 2, 2009
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
The meat of the climb doesn't really get difficult till about 30 feet up from the new start. If you're 5'5 or lower, one clipping stand is pretty "reachy" and I would say right around the first crux of the climb.

Use the arm and hand jams up top to help with the pump! Jul 16, 2012
Ross Peritore
San Diego, CA
Ross Peritore   San Diego, CA
Easy for the grade and a really fun climb! Apr 22, 2018