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Violator [Suggest Change]
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.4 from 53
votes
Routes in (m) Taboo Area
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A Handful of Harpies S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cavorting S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Forbidden Fruit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Magic Mushroom S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Momentum S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Original Sin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rocky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Seduction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sins of the Flesh S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sky Pilot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Solidarity S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Taboo T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Violator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft |
| FA: | Louie Anderson, 2004 |
| Page Views: | 3,151 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jan 11, 2007 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Open, with restrictions: Park on the street
Details
Do not drive into the Quarry. You will be ticketed $150 for trespassing. Climbing access is open, just park on the street.
Description [Suggest Change]
Start up a short section of easy slab to the base of a left-facing flake system which is jammed/liebacked to a cruxy sequence transitioning into another flake system; being tall helps, as does good technique. Once established in the upper flake race the pump as you climb the spectacular flake system, finishing with a second crux as you work fingery edges up and left, and then back right to anchors on a large ledge.
Athletic and pumpy with great positioning which makes this route a highly recommended route for the grade and also serves as an ideal warm-up for the harder lines in the area.
Athletic and pumpy with great positioning which makes this route a highly recommended route for the grade and also serves as an ideal warm-up for the harder lines in the area.
- There is an extension route to this called Wicked Violator (5.13a)**** - 17 bolts to anchors.
Location [Suggest Change]
Located midway between the obvious left-facing corner of Taboo and Magic Mushroom, this climbs a series of steep flakes two routes right of Original Sin.
CA
Mammoth Lakes
Augsburg, Germany
The info above is spot on when it said 'helps to be tall'- for little people like me it felt really challenging... ha, ended up dyno-ing the lower crux at the (joking) suggestion of my partner- but no one was more shocked than me when it actually worked!!! sooo... maybe that's the beta for short girls??
but yeah, 5 stars, super fun! can't wait to do more work on it! Oct 2, 2009
Riverside, Ca
Use the arm and hand jams up top to help with the pump! Jul 16, 2012
San Diego, CA