Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (m) Taboo Area

A Handful of Harpies S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cavorting S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Forbidden Fruit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Magic Mushroom S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Momentum S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Original Sin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seduction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sins of the Flesh S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sky Pilot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Solidarity S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Taboo T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Violator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Page Views: 3,015 total, 23/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


58 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Start up a short section of easy slab to the base of a left-facing flake system which is jammed/liebacked to a cruxy sequence transitioning into another flake system; being tall helps, as does good technique. Once established in the upper flake race the pump as you climb the spectacular flake system, finishing with a second crux as you work fingery edges up and left, and then back right to anchors on a large ledge.

Athletic and pumpy with great positioning which makes this route a highly recommended route for the grade and also serves as an ideal warm-up for the harder lines in the area.

  • There is an extension route to this called Wicked Violator (5.13a)**** - 17 bolts to anchors.

Location

Located midway between the obvious left-facing corner of Taboo and Magic Mushroom, this climbs a series of steep flakes two routes right of Original Sin.

Protection

12 bolts, triple ring anchor

Photos

Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.11c
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.11c
The meat of the climb doesn't really get difficult till about 30 feet up from the new start. If you're 5'5 or lower, one clipping stand is pretty "reachy" and I would say right around the first crux of the climb.

Use the arm and hand jams up top to help with the pump! Jul 16, 2012
HeatherB-Radley
Augsburg, Germany
 
HeatherB-Radley   Augsburg, Germany
 
This is such a fun route! with 2 distinct cruxes and definitely a battle against the pump.... its my personal work in progress project until i can do it totally clean!!! :)
The info above is spot on when it said 'helps to be tall'- for little people like me it felt really challenging... ha, ended up dyno-ing the lower crux at the (joking) suggestion of my partner- but no one was more shocked than me when it actually worked!!! sooo... maybe that's the beta for short girls??
but yeah, 5 stars, super fun! can't wait to do more work on it! Oct 2, 2009
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.11c
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.11c
Big holds with only a couple of short crux sequences makes this a soft tick. The climbing is great however, and well worth doing. Nov 15, 2008
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Originally started from a ledge below the start of the flake system, there's now two bolts to start from ground level. Make sure to use a 70 meter rope if belaying from the ground or be extra careful when lowering off with anything shorter. Apr 2, 2008